redbird: Me with a cup of tea, standing in front of a refrigerator (drinking tea in jo's kitchen)
( Apr. 17th, 2011 06:30 pm)
The Musee des Beaux-Arts in Montreal has a special exhibit of "The Warrior Emperor and China's Terracotta Army." It's built around (a small subset of) the burial goods of the first Qin (or Ch'in, if you use the old transliteration) Emperor, which the Chinese have been slowly excavating since the 1970s.

The Qin Emperor had a large tomb complex built, with a variety of grave goods, including many life-size terracotta* soldiers, servants, and entertainers to (we presume) serve him in the afterlife. The model soldiers and horses are impressive; most of the paint has long since worn away or faded, and most of the weapons and such that the emperor had buried with him were looted not long after his death. Thousands of model people remain.

The soldiers have varied and realistic faces, though their bodies are very similar. There was an explanation of how they were built: solid legs, coil-built hollow bodies, and molded heads using several different noses, eyes, etc., which combinatorically gave thousands of different-looking faces. There is speculation about whether some of them were modeled on specific people, a question that is unlikely to ever be answered. Along with soldiers and servants, there were acrobats and other entertainers.

Before the actual terracotta warriors, the exhibit includes a timeline, some bronze bells, a model of the palace (somewhat speculative), wall, floor, and roof tiles, and money from the period. Before the Qin emperor, there were several kingdoms, with money in different shapes (some looked like they could have been fit together like jigsaw pieces, or maybe even tiled the plane). After him, one kingdom, its money in the center of the exhibit, familiar enough that I thought "right, that's what money looks like": coins of that design were money in China for two thousand years.

The central exhibit halls are very well down, with mirrors letting you see all sides of the terracotta warriors and horses.

From there, we got to an impressive crossbow (earlier than I'd thought) and then to the third- and half-size models some of the later emperors used. The models show that at least some of the later emperors had female as well as male infantry; the palace servants included eunuchs. There were, of course, bureaucrats: the emperors were expecting, not a paradise of idle luxury, but a world much like ours, with an economy, armies, and a system of managing it. (The later models are less varied than the first Qin emperor's, but enough to show, or at least strongly suggest, an ethnically mixed army.)

I saw an ad for this exhibit on the metro in December, and decided "yes, I have to see this," because I'd been reading about them for years, and this may be the first time any of the terracotta soldiers have left China. When I landed at Dorval Friday afternoon, I told the immigration and customs people I was here "to visit friends, and there's a museum exhibit I want to see." It was well worth the time, and the $20 entry fee for the special exhibit. (I paid $1.75 Ticketmaster fee to see the Tutankhamen exhibit around 1978, but I think there was some complicated reason why the tickets themselves were free.) The exhibit runs until June 26; if you're going to be in or near Montreal, I recommend it highly. As with any popular exhibit, it's worth going early or on a weekday to avoid some of the crowding. (Tuesday-Friday; half this city is fermi le lundi.)

*a kind of pottery
redbird: a New York subway train, the cars sometimes called "redbirds" (redbird train)
( Feb. 21st, 2004 09:22 pm)
This afternoon, [livejournal.com profile] cattitude and I met [livejournal.com profile] treadpath and [livejournal.com profile] screaminghippo for pizza and a visit to the American Museum of Natural History, which has a special exhibit on the city of Petra. On the way in, Cattitude and I rejoined the museum; this not only gets us unlimited visits, and a discount on snacks and gift shop and such (though it'll be a few weeks before we get our membership cards), we'll get Natural History magazine again. And they threw in two free IMAX tickets, usable any time this year.

Petra is a city--now, the ruins of a city--in northern Arabia, built around the 4th century BCE by the Nabataeans. They turned a defensible location with reasonable access to water (no small matter in Arabia, then or now) into a major trading crossroads.

The exhibit was excellent, though smaller than I'd have liked. Most of the material was on loan, largely from the Jordanian Department of Antiquities. I suspect a large part of the problem is that there aren't that many portable artefacts from Petra: the people built by carving into the stone. But there were pictures of the stone tombs, pieces of buildings, a bit of jewelry, some sections of pipe, and images of deities, some made locally and some obviously imported. With trade came cultural influences. After Alexander the Great came back from India, the Nabateans started carving elephant heads into their buildings as a symbol of strength; some of the images show obvious foreign influence.

At the museum entrance, they gave us timed tickets; there was a guided tour leaving at the time we asked for, but we weren't required to stay with it. We didn't, partly because I wasn't thrilled with the guide, and partly because I didn't want to be surrounded by lots of strangers and thus unable to see the exhibits clearly. Fortunately, the explanatory material in the exhibit is also good: often, along with descriptions (e.g., "bronze lamp with human figure handle") there are discussions of cultural influences, and then a section on "how we know".

Petra was badly damaged by an earthquake, a couple of centuries after the Romans took over Arabia [there were notes on why they think the takeover wasn't by battle] and some time after Christianity became important in the city. The earthquake has been dated, and the "how we know" explains that, first, an earliest date was put on the quake by the discovery of a hoard of coins known to have been minted in a given year. And then a letter was found describing the quake: the author not only dated the letter, he gave the time of the quake itself and the aftershock. (The city had already become less important, as trade moved elsewhere for a variety of reasons.)

I wasn't surprised that they were getting pepper and fabric over the Silk Road, nor that Petra is mentioned in Chinese records beginning in the 2nd century BCE. What surprised me is that one of those Chinese mentions is of a troupe of traveling jugglers who had come from Petra to China.

After the Petra exhibit, we went down to the Hall of Ocean Life; I was the only one of us who'd seen it since it reopened. I had to bail out earlier than I'd wanted; first my toes cramped in a weird way while we were walking around, and then I just felt vaguely unsteady and quite tired, so it was clearly time to go home. Tea helped, but not enough; we were close to Museum closing time, and I wasn't up for a long wander outside, even on a relatively mild day. Once again, I was glad of that the basement entrance of the museum connects directly with the IND subway line.
redbird: a New York subway train, the cars sometimes called "redbirds" (redbird train)
( Feb. 21st, 2004 09:22 pm)
This afternoon, [livejournal.com profile] cattitude and I met [livejournal.com profile] treadpath and [livejournal.com profile] screaminghippo for pizza and a visit to the American Museum of Natural History, which has a special exhibit on the city of Petra. On the way in, Cattitude and I rejoined the museum; this not only gets us unlimited visits, and a discount on snacks and gift shop and such (though it'll be a few weeks before we get our membership cards), we'll get Natural History magazine again. And they threw in two free IMAX tickets, usable any time this year.

Petra is a city--now, the ruins of a city--in northern Arabia, built around the 4th century BCE by the Nabataeans. They turned a defensible location with reasonable access to water (no small matter in Arabia, then or now) into a major trading crossroads.

The exhibit was excellent, though smaller than I'd have liked. Most of the material was on loan, largely from the Jordanian Department of Antiquities. I suspect a large part of the problem is that there aren't that many portable artefacts from Petra: the people built by carving into the stone. But there were pictures of the stone tombs, pieces of buildings, a bit of jewelry, some sections of pipe, and images of deities, some made locally and some obviously imported. With trade came cultural influences. After Alexander the Great came back from India, the Nabateans started carving elephant heads into their buildings as a symbol of strength; some of the images show obvious foreign influence.

At the museum entrance, they gave us timed tickets; there was a guided tour leaving at the time we asked for, but we weren't required to stay with it. We didn't, partly because I wasn't thrilled with the guide, and partly because I didn't want to be surrounded by lots of strangers and thus unable to see the exhibits clearly. Fortunately, the explanatory material in the exhibit is also good: often, along with descriptions (e.g., "bronze lamp with human figure handle") there are discussions of cultural influences, and then a section on "how we know".

Petra was badly damaged by an earthquake, a couple of centuries after the Romans took over Arabia [there were notes on why they think the takeover wasn't by battle] and some time after Christianity became important in the city. The earthquake has been dated, and the "how we know" explains that, first, an earliest date was put on the quake by the discovery of a hoard of coins known to have been minted in a given year. And then a letter was found describing the quake: the author not only dated the letter, he gave the time of the quake itself and the aftershock. (The city had already become less important, as trade moved elsewhere for a variety of reasons.)

I wasn't surprised that they were getting pepper and fabric over the Silk Road, nor that Petra is mentioned in Chinese records beginning in the 2nd century BCE. What surprised me is that one of those Chinese mentions is of a troupe of traveling jugglers who had come from Petra to China.

After the Petra exhibit, we went down to the Hall of Ocean Life; I was the only one of us who'd seen it since it reopened. I had to bail out earlier than I'd wanted; first my toes cramped in a weird way while we were walking around, and then I just felt vaguely unsteady and quite tired, so it was clearly time to go home. Tea helped, but not enough; we were close to Museum closing time, and I wasn't up for a long wander outside, even on a relatively mild day. Once again, I was glad of that the basement entrance of the museum connects directly with the IND subway line.
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